Saturday, November 12, 2011

Mauviel M'Passion 2194.16 Copper 1.9-Quart Sugar Saucepan with Copper Handle

Mauviel M'Passion 2194.16 Copper 1.9-Quart Sugar Saucepan with Copper Handle

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Product Feature

  • 1.9-quart saucepan for caramelizing sugar or heating sauces
  • Attractive copper construction conducts heat efficiently
  • Even heat distribution melts sugar without clumping
  • Unique conical copper handle is secured with copper rivets
  • Hand washing recommended; limited lifetime warranty

Product Description

Mauviel, a French family business established in 1830 and located in the Normandy town of Villedieu-les-Poeles, is the foremost manufacturer of professional copper cookware in the world today. Highly regarded in the professional world, with over 170 years of experience, Mauviel offers several different lines of copper cookware to professional chefs and home cooks that appreciate the benefits of their high quality products. Professional cooks can attest that copper cookware is an essential part of every cookware collection as it is 2X more conductive than aluminum and 10X more conductive than stainless steel. This advantage makes copper the very best material for cooking, as it is unsurpassed in its ability to heat up evenly and rapidly and to cool down quickly, allowing for maximum control and great cooking results.

Mauviel M'Passion 2194.16 Copper 1.9-Quart Sugar Saucepan with Copper Handle Review

This is a piece of kitchen equipment with a very specialized purpose, preparing sugar solutions such as caramel, toffee, syrup for boiled frosting or divinity, and suchlike. The purpose for using copper is its excellent conductivity. Placed over a flame or electric element, a heavy copper vessel will conduct heat up the sides of the pan as well as through the bottom, helping to assure even heating. One of the problems with caramelizing sugar is that it is easy to get hot spots in the cooking vessel that will burn while the remainder of the mixture is not yet at the desired temperature. Heavy copper minimizes this problem.

Most people who are ready to lay out big bucks for a little copper pan are already familiar with its characteristics but for those who aren't, the Mauviel pans are solid copper, right down to the rivets, fabricated by hand, and produced in relatively small numbers. The bottom is about 1/8th inch thick, the sides a bit thinner but still very substantial. The handle is a cone of copper formed around a mandrel and soldered on the undersurface and to the mounting plate, which is then riveted to the pot. That little bit of silver solder is the only part of the pot that is not pure copper. Formed into the top of the pot is a pouring spout. This is a right-handed pot though I am told that, for a suitable sum, Mauviel will make you a left-handed one.

This pot is heavy when empty, doubly so when filled with boiling sugar. That makes it dangerous for anyone who has weak wrists or is careless. Sugar at 300F will burn skin instantly and is difficult to remove before the burn is a done deal. Great care is needed. Sugar pans are dangerous in another way, as well. Remember how conductive copper is? Remember what the handle is made from? You got it! The handle becomes extremely hot. Because most of us are accustomed to insulated handles on cookware, it is perilously easy to grab the handle of the pot without a mitt or cloth and get a burned hand for your trouble. If you jerk your hand away and spill the contents on yourself, the results could be catastrophic.

If you only boil sugar a few times a year, this pot may not be a sound investment (though it has great foodie snob appeal). If, on the other hand, you do a fair bit of confectionary work, it is a useful tool that becomes your great friend. The "I want one" versus "I need one" ratio varies a lot from person to person...

Just a few words about this particular pot. It holds 1.9 quarts. Two quarts of caramel? That sounds like a lot. It IS a lot and more on that in a second. Boiling sugar foams and having it boil over the top of the pan is not a good thing. For example, if you are making toffee and using the traditional formula of equal parts sugar and butter by volume, you will find that two cups of sugar and a pound of butter just about maxes out this pan. Even with that limited amount, you will have to watch it like a hawk and turn the fire down low once it begins to boil. That is not a bad thing since one of the most common errors made by beginning confectioners is trying to reduce the syrup too quickly. That being said, two cups of sugar and an equal amount of butter makes a LOT of toffee. Few home cooks will need a larger pan. It doesn't make sense to buy a bigger one than you need because the already-high price goes way up and the pan becomes much heavier and harder to handle.

some last thoughts about food safety. Sugar pots are unlined, not because the contact of the sugar with the copper accomplishes anything magical but just because there is nothing to be gained by lining them, either inside or outside. Sugar does not react with copper within the time and temperature parameters of candy-making. The pot should not be pressed into service for cooking other foods, though, because copper does react with acidic materials. Will this kill you? No, but it will make your food taste bad and could conceivably give you an upset stomach. Copper acetate, for example, is not a wholesome food product...

About the only other use for unlined copper in the kitchen is the traditional bowl for whipping egg whites. There is a longstanding conviction among many cooks that whites expand to greater volume and demonstrate increased stability when whipped in a copper vessel. When I was in culinary school, two of our most respected instructors used to go at each other about this at regular intervals. I've never noticed much difference. Try it yourself and see what you think.

Bottom line: This pan is superbly designed and constructed for its intended purpose. If you need one, you can order this one without hesitation.

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